A squirrel running along your fence looks harmless enough. But that fence is a highway, and the destination is your roof, your soffit, your attic, or your wiring. The same animal that entertains you at the park becomes a genuine threat to your property when it establishes your home as part of its daily circuit. Chewed cables, shredded insulation, gnawed fascia boards, and contaminated roof spaces are the end result of a problem that begins with an unprotected fence top, an open wall cap, or a bare roof edge that invites squirrels to walk straight across and straight in.
\n\nSquirrel spikes help stop that journey at the boundary. A squirrel spike strip fixed on the surfaces squirrels use as travel routes makes those routes awkward and uncomfortable to use, which pushes them to go elsewhere before they reach the areas where they cause damage. Spike strips are simple in concept, and the details of material, installation and placement make the difference between a strip that does its job and one that a determined squirrel simply walks around. This guide covers those details so you can make choices that give you better, longer-lasting results.
\n\nThe pest deterrent market is crowded with spike products designed for different animals, and the distinctions between them matter more than many buyers realize. A spike strip made for one species may do little against another, and squirrels present specific physical challenges that call for strips chosen and fitted with them in mind.
\n\nAn adult grey squirrel is heavier than the birds that land on most ledges, has powerful hind legs that let it leap a long way, and has sharp claws that grip surfaces other animals would slide off. When a squirrel meets an obstacle, it does not simply turn away. It tests the obstacle, probes for weak points, and tries several approaches before it gives up on a route. That mix of strength and persistence means a squirrel spike strip needs to be sturdy and fitted with care, not just placed and forgotten.
\n\nBird deterrent spikes are made to discourage pigeons, starlings and gulls from landing on ledges and rooflines. They work against birds because birds are light, land from above, and avoid putting their feet down among obstacles. Squirrels approach from a completely different angle. They arrive sideways along a fence or wall, they are heavier than a pigeon, and they are strong, determined climbers that will look for any gap or bare edge.
\n\nThat is why the way a strip is made and fitted matters. A squirrel that finds a gap, a loose strip or a bare edge will use it. This store sells two kinds of strip for squirrels. Squirrel Spikes are a brown hard moulded plastic strip of cone-shaped spikes, 4.5 cm wide. Anti Squirrel Spikes, Fence Spikes and Gutter Spikes use 1.3 mm stainless steel wire spikes, 115 mm long, on a clear polycarbonate base, with a 70 mm protection width from tip to tip. Whichever you choose, match the strip to the surface and fit it with no gaps, because gaps and bare edges are a common reason a spike installation lets squirrels through.
\n\nUnderstanding the individual components of a squirrel spike strip and how they contribute to the overall deterrent performance helps you evaluate products critically and choose strips that will perform reliably in real-world conditions.
\n\nThe base strip is the foundation that holds the spikes in place and attaches the whole strip to the mounting surface. Squirrel Spikes are hard moulded plastic that does not rust, made of 12.5 cm snap segments that you can separate to fit. On this store's stainless steel strips, the wire spikes press into a clear polycarbonate base 500 mm long, 23 mm wide and 5 mm high. Either way, the base needs to sit firmly on the surface, suit the width you are protecting, and stay fixed through weather and the push of a curious squirrel.
\n\nStrip width is easy to overlook. A strip that is narrower than the surface it protects leaves bare edges on either side where a squirrel can walk. Measure the width of each surface before you order. Squirrel Spikes are 4.5 cm wide, and the stainless steel wire spikes spread to a 70 mm protection width from tip to tip. For wider surfaces like wall caps and flat ledges, fit two or more rows side by side so no walkable surface is left exposed.
\n\nThe spikes themselves are the active deterrent component. Their height, diameter, spacing, and rigidity collectively determine whether the strip deters squirrels or merely inconveniences them briefly before they push through.
\n\nHeight and shape matter because a squirrel with long limbs will try to step over or reach past an obstacle to find a flat surface beyond it. The stainless steel wire spikes this store sells are 115 mm long. Squirrel Spikes use hard moulded plastic cone spikes that work as a visual and physical deterrent on narrow surfaces. Whichever you fit, cover the full length and width of the route so there is no flat footing on either side of the spikes.
\n\nStiffness matters too. Spikes that fold flat under a squirrel's weight give it a place to walk. Squirrel Spikes are hard moulded plastic, and the stainless steel strips use 1.3 mm wire pressed into a polycarbonate base. Check your strips after fitting and after storms, and replace any that are bent, cracked or loose.
\n\nSpacing and coverage work together. If a squirrel can find a flat spot between spikes or along the edge of a strip, it can use that spot as a foothold and keep going. The stainless steel strips carry 60 spikes per metre, and Squirrel Spikes are a strip of cone spikes 4.5 cm wide. With either, lay strips end to end with no gaps, and add a row where the surface is wider than the strip.
\n\nSquirrel spikes are meant to deter, not injure. The spikes make a surface uncomfortable and unsteady to stand on, which is enough to put a squirrel off using it, and they are non-lethal. Rules about dealing with wildlife vary by province and municipality, so check local rules if you are unsure what you can do about squirrels on your property. Wear gloves when handling strips, and fit them out of reach of children and pets.
\n\nSpikes set at more than one angle cover a wider area than a row pointing straight up. On this store's stainless steel strips, the wire spikes spread from a 23 mm base to a 70 mm protection width from tip to tip, which makes the strip harder for a squirrel to step around from either side. Angled spikes help most on surfaces where squirrels approach from several directions, such as wall caps at the junction of two walls or fence post tops where several routes meet.
\n\nThis store sells squirrel spike strips in two materials: hard moulded plastic (Squirrel Spikes) and stainless steel wire spikes on a clear polycarbonate base (Anti Squirrel Spikes, Fence Spikes and Gutter Spikes). Each has its own strengths, and knowing them helps you choose the right strip for each spot on your property.
\n\nThis store's stainless steel strips use 1.3 mm stainless steel wire spikes, 115 mm long, pressed into a clear polycarbonate base 500 mm long and 23 mm wide, with 60 spikes per metre and a 70 mm protection width from tip to tip. They mount on flat, curved or irregular surfaces with UV-stabilized silicone adhesive, nails, screws or cable ties. That makes them a practical choice for roof edges, gutters, eaves and fence tops that face wind, rain, frost and sun.
\n\nStainless steel wire spikes are easier to see than a bare fence top, which can be a drawback where looks matter. Being seen has a benefit, though. Squirrels are observant animals that learn to link an obstacle with an unpleasant experience, and Squirrel Spikes work as a visual as well as a physical deterrent, so a squirrel may turn back before it makes contact.
\n\nSquirrel Spikes are a brown hard moulded plastic strip of cone-shaped spikes, 50 cm long and 4.5 cm wide. The plastic does not rust, and each strip is made of 12.5 cm snap segments that you can separate to fit shorter runs, corners and narrow spots. The brown strips stay visible enough to act as a visual deterrent on fences, sheds, balconies and roof edges. They fix with nails or screws, double-sided tape, glue or strong zip ties, so you can match the fixing to the surface.
\n\nSun and weather wear on any outdoor plastic over time. Neither strip comes with a UV rating or a lifespan in years, so treat them like any outdoor fixture: check them each season, and replace any strip or segment that has turned brittle, cracked or come loose. On the stainless steel strips, fix the polycarbonate base with UV-stabilized silicone adhesive or mechanical fixings so it stays firmly in place through the seasons.
\n\nYou can mix the two. The stainless steel strips suit roof edges, gutters, eaves and fence tops where you want 115 mm wire spikes and a 70 mm protection width, and they mount on flat, curved or irregular surfaces. Squirrel Spikes suit fence rails, ledges, sheds and balcony rails where a brown moulded plastic strip that separates into 12.5 cm segments is easier to fit. Using each where it fits lets you cover the whole property without paying for more than you need.
\n\nEven well-made squirrel spikes underperform when they are fitted poorly. The difference between an installation that keeps squirrels off a route and one that only slows them down comes down to how the strips are positioned, fixed and joined.
\n\nBefore buying a single strip, walk your property and find every surface that squirrels are using or could use to reach your buildings. Mark fence sections with scratch marks or droppings that show active routes. Note wall tops that connect to trees, neighbouring buildings or roof access points. Find downspouts and other vertical structures that squirrels climb. Measure the total length of each surface that needs protection and the width of each one, to decide whether single or double rows of spikes are needed. This tells you how many strips to order and where each one goes, so you avoid gaps from ordering too few and waste from ordering too many.
\n\nThe key installation principle is continuity. Squirrel spike strips should form an unbroken line along the whole length of the surface you are protecting, with no gaps between strips, no bare corners and no exposed sections where the strip ends before the surface does. Butt each strip tightly against the next. At corners and right-angle turns, run one strip right to the corner edge and start the next from the side edge, so the corner itself is covered. With Squirrel Spikes, separate the 12.5 cm snap segments when you need a shorter piece. Where the spiked surface meets a wall or post, take the spikes as close to the junction as you can, so a squirrel coming from the next structure has as little room as possible to land.
\n\nThe fixing method has to hold the strips firmly through weather, heat and cold, and the push of squirrels testing the barrier. Squirrel Spikes fix with nails or screws, double-sided tape, glue or strong zip ties. The stainless steel strips fix with UV-stabilized silicone adhesive, nails, screws or cable ties. On smooth, clean surfaces such as painted timber, PVC and finished metal, adhesive or double-sided tape along the full length of the base gives a firm hold. On rough or porous surfaces such as bare brick, rough-sawn timber and stone, nails or screws usually hold better. On railings, thin edges or anything you would rather not drill or glue, zip ties or cable ties around the surface give a secure mount that is easy to remove later.
\n\nA single row suits a surface no wider than the strip itself: 4.5 cm for Squirrel Spikes, or the 70 mm protection width of the stainless steel strips. Wider surfaces, including brick wall caps, stone wall tops, flat roof edges and timber beam tops, need two or more rows side by side to cover the full width and leave no walkable flat surface between the rows and the edges. Line the outer rows up with the outer edges of the surface, leaving no bare margin that a squirrel could use as a narrow path around the spikes.
\n\nSquirrel spike strips are made for horizontal and gently sloping surfaces. They are not suited to vertical surfaces such as downspouts, tree trunks and wall faces, where squirrels climb rather than walk. Vertical routes need a different approach, such as guards or smooth banding that make a climb harder, trimming branches that overhang the roof, and sealing entry points on the building. A fuller squirrel plan pairs spike strips on travel surfaces with steps like these on climbing routes.
\n\nSquirrel spikes need little looking after, but a small amount of attention now and then keeps them working well and helps them last.
\n\nLeaves, twigs, seed pods and other debris build up on spike strips over time, especially in autumn. A thick layer of debris makes a mat that a squirrel can walk across without touching the spikes, which cancels out the deterrent. Clear debris from your strips at least twice a year, in late autumn after the leaves fall and in spring before squirrels get busy. A stiff hand brush or a leaf blower removes most debris without disturbing the strips.
\n\nCheck your strips while you clear debris for any that have shifted, come away from the surface, or been damaged by falling branches, maintenance work or severe weather. Refix loose strips with fresh adhesive, tape or extra fixings. Replace any strip or segment with broken, bent or missing spikes, because a gap gives a squirrel somewhere to step. On the stainless steel strips, check that the pins are still pressed firmly into the base. Look at the surface itself too, for flaking paint, crumbling mortar or rotting timber, and fix those problems before they loosen the strips.
\n\nThe ultimate test of your squirrel spike installation is whether squirrels are still accessing the areas the spikes were installed to protect. After installation, monitor the protected surfaces and the areas beyond them for signs of continued squirrel activity including fresh scratch marks, droppings, gnaw marks, and sightings of squirrels on or near the spiked surfaces. If squirrels are still getting through, inspect the installation for gaps, insufficient width coverage, or sections where debris has created a bridge. If the installation appears complete and gap-free but squirrels are still penetrating, they may be accessing the area via an unprotected route that bypasses the spiked surfaces entirely, such as an overhanging branch, a neighbouring structure, or a vertical climbing route that the horizontal spikes do not address.
\n\nEven careful installations can leave blind spots that squirrels discover and use. Knowing the areas that are often missed helps you close these gaps before the squirrels find them.
\n\nGarden gates interrupt the fence line and create two unprotected surfaces, the gate top rail and both gate posts, that squirrels use to bypass spiked fence sections. If your fence tops are covered with squirrel spike strips but the gate is bare, the gate becomes the new preferred crossing point. Extend spike coverage across the full width of the gate top and onto both gate post caps to maintain continuity across the entire boundary line. Use adhesive mounting rather than screws on gates to avoid interfering with the gate's operation and structure.
\n\nWhere a fence meets a wall, where a wall meets a building, or where a shed roof abuts a boundary fence, a small unprotected zone at the junction gives squirrels a landing point to transition between structures. These transitions are easy to miss during installation because each individual structure may appear fully protected when viewed in isolation. Walk your boundary with a squirrel's eye view, looking specifically at every point where two structures meet, and add spike coverage or blocking material to any junction that offers a paw-sized gap in protection.
\n\nThere is a satisfying directness to squirrel spikes. They do not use chemicals that wash away. They do not rely on scents that fade in the wind or batteries that run flat in the cold. They sit on your fence, your wall or your roof edge and make it uncomfortable and awkward for a squirrel to walk across, without harming it. That simplicity is their strength, and it is why a physical barrier on the routes squirrels use is a sensible first step in keeping them away from your home.
\n\nChoose the strip that suits each surface: brown moulded plastic Squirrel Spikes or the stainless steel wire strips on a clear polycarbonate base. Fit them with complete coverage, no gaps and secure fixings. Clear debris, check them regularly, and extend coverage to any new route squirrels try. Do these things and your squirrel spikes will keep doing their job quietly, helping protect your property while the squirrels find somewhere else to run.
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