A squirrel running along your fence looks harmless enough. But that fence is a highway, and the destination is your roof, your soffit, your attic, or your wiring. The same animal that entertains you at the park becomes a genuine threat to your property when it establishes your home as part of its daily circuit. Chewed cables, shredded insulation, gnawed fascia boards, and contaminated roof spaces are the end result of a problem that begins with an unprotected fence top, an open wall cap, or a bare roof edge that invites squirrels to walk straight across and straight in.
\n\nSquirrel spikes help stop that journey at the boundary. A squirrel spike strip fixed on the surfaces squirrels use as travel routes makes those routes awkward and uncomfortable to use, which pushes them to go elsewhere before they reach the areas where they cause damage. Spike strips are simple in concept, and the details of material, installation and placement make the difference between a strip that does its job and one that a determined squirrel simply walks around. This guide covers those details so you can make choices that give you better, longer-lasting results.
\n\nThe pest deterrent market is crowded with spike products designed for different animals, and the distinctions between them matter more than many buyers realize. A spike strip made for one species may do little against another, and squirrels present specific physical challenges that call for strips chosen and fitted with them in mind.
\n\nAn adult grey squirrel is heavier than the birds that land on most ledges, has powerful hind legs that let it leap a long way, and has sharp claws that grip surfaces other animals would slide off. When a squirrel meets an obstacle, it does not simply turn away. It tests the obstacle, probes for weak points, and tries several approaches before it gives up on a route. That mix of strength and persistence means a squirrel spike strip needs to be sturdy and fitted with care, not just placed and forgotten.
\n\nBird deterrent spikes are made to discourage pigeons, starlings and gulls from landing on ledges and rooflines. They work against birds because birds are light, land from above, and avoid putting their feet down among obstacles. Squirrels approach from a completely different angle. They arrive sideways along a fence or wall, they are heavier than a pigeon, and they are strong, determined climbers that will look for any gap or bare edge.
\n\nThat is why the way a strip is made and fitted matters. A squirrel that finds a gap, a loose strip or a bare edge will use it. This store sells two kinds of strip for squirrels. Squirrel Spikes are a brown hard moulded plastic strip of cone-shaped spikes, 4.5 cm wide. Anti Squirrel Spikes, Fence Spikes and Gutter Spikes use 1.3 mm stainless steel wire spikes, 115 mm long, on a clear polycarbonate base, with a 70 mm protection width from tip to tip. Whichever you choose, match the strip to the surface and fit it with no gaps, because gaps and bare edges are a common reason a spike installation lets squirrels through.
\n\nUnderstanding the individual components of a squirrel spike strip and how they contribute to the overall deterrent performance helps you evaluate products critically and choose strips that will perform reliably in real-world conditions.
\n\nThe base strip is the foundation that holds the spikes in place and attaches the whole strip to the mounting surface. Squirrel Spikes are hard moulded plastic that does not rust, made of 12.5 cm snap segments that you can separate to fit. On this store's stainless steel strips, the wire spikes press into a clear polycarbonate base 500 mm long, 23 mm wide and 5 mm high. Either way, the base needs to sit firmly on the surface, suit the width you are protecting, and stay fixed through weather and the push of a curious squirrel.
\n\nStrip width is easy to overlook. A strip that is narrower than the surface it protects leaves bare edges on either side where a squirrel can walk. Measure the width of each surface before you order. Squirrel Spikes are 4.5 cm wide, and the stainless steel wire spikes spread to a 70 mm protection width from tip to tip. For wider surfaces like wall caps and flat ledges, fit two or more rows side by side so no walkable surface is left exposed.
\n\nThe spikes themselves are the active deterrent component. Their height, diameter, spacing, and rigidity collectively determine whether the strip deters squirrels or merely inconveniences them briefly before they push through.
\n\nHeight and shape matter because a squirrel with long limbs will try to step over or reach past an obstacle to find a flat surface beyond it. The stainless steel wire spikes this store sells are 115 mm long. Squirrel Spikes use hard moulded plastic cone spikes that work as a visual and physical deterrent on narrow surfaces. Whichever you fit, cover the full length and width of the route so there is no flat footing on either side of the spikes.
\n\nStiffness matters too. Spikes that fold flat under a squirrel's weight give it a place to walk. Squirrel Spikes are hard moulded plastic, and the stainless steel strips use 1.3 mm wire pressed into a polycarbonate base. Check your strips after fitting and after storms, and replace any that are bent, cracked or loose.
\n\nSpacing and coverage work together. If a squirrel can find a flat spot between spikes or along the edge of a strip, it can use that spot as a foothold and keep going. The stainless steel strips carry 60 spikes per metre, and Squirrel Spikes are a strip of cone spikes 4.5 cm wide. With either, lay strips end to end with no gaps, and add a row where the surface is wider than the strip.
\n\nSquirrel spikes are meant to deter, not injure. The spikes make a surface uncomfortable and unsteady to stand on, which is enough to put a squirrel off using it, and they are non-lethal. Rules about dealing with wildlife vary by province and municipality, so check local rules if you are unsure what you can do about squirrels on your property. Wear gloves when handling strips, and fit them out of reach of children and pets.
\n\nSpikes set at more than one angle cover a wider area than a row pointing straight up. On this store's stainless steel strips, the wire spikes spread from a 23 mm base to a 70 mm protection width from tip to tip, which makes the strip harder for a squirrel to step around from either side. Angled spikes help most on surfaces where squirrels approach from several directions, such as wall caps at the junction of two walls or fence post tops where several routes meet.
\n\nThis store sells squirrel spike strips in two materials: hard moulded plastic (Squirrel Spikes) and stainless steel wire spikes on a clear polycarbonate base (Anti Squirrel Spikes, Fence Spikes and Gutter Spikes). Each has its own strengths, and knowing them helps you choose the right strip for each spot on your property.
\n\nThis store's stainless steel strips use 1.3 mm stainless steel wire spikes, 115 mm long, pressed into a clear polycarbonate base 500 mm long and 23 mm wide, with 60 spikes per metre and a 70 mm protection width from tip to tip. They mount on flat, curved or irregular surfaces with UV-stabilized silicone adhesive, nails, screws or cable ties. That makes them a practical choice for roof edges, gutters, eaves and fence tops that face wind, rain, frost and sun.
\n\nStainless steel wire spikes are easier to see than a bare fence top, which can be a drawback where looks matter. Being seen has a benefit, though. Squirrels are observant animals that learn to link an obstacle with an unpleasant experience, and Squirrel Spikes work as a visual as well as a physical deterrent, so a squirrel may turn back before it makes contact.
\n\nSquirrel Spikes are a brown hard moulded plastic strip of cone-shaped spikes, 50 cm long and 4.5 cm wide. The plastic does not rust, and each strip is made of 12.5 cm snap segments that you can separate to fit shorter runs, corners and narrow spots. The brown strips stay visible enough to act as a visual deterrent on fences, sheds, balconies and roof edges. They fix with nails or screws, double-sided tape, glue or strong zip ties, so you can match the fixing to the surface.
\n\nSun and weather wear on any outdoor plastic over time. Neither strip comes with a UV rating or a lifespan in years, so treat them like any outdoor fixture: check them each season, and replace any strip or segment that has turned brittle, cracked or come loose. On the stainless steel strips, fix the polycarbonate base with UV-stabilized silicone adhesive or mechanical fixings so it stays firmly in place through the seasons.
\n\nYou can mix the two. The stainless steel strips suit roof edges, gutters, eaves and fence tops where you want 115 mm wire spikes and a 70 mm protection width, and they mount on flat, curved or irregular surfaces. Squirrel Spikes suit fence rails, ledges, sheds and balcony rails where a brown moulded plastic strip that separates into 12.5 cm segments is easier to fit. Using each where it fits lets you cover the whole property without paying for more than you need.
\n\nEven well-made squirrel spikes underperform when they are fitted poorly. The difference between an installation that keeps squirrels off a route and one that only slows them down comes down to how the strips are positioned, fixed and joined.
\n\nBefore buying a single strip, walk your property and find every surface that squirrels are using or could use to reach your buildings. Mark fence sections with scratch marks or droppings that show active routes. Note wall tops that connect to trees, neighbouring buildings or roof access points. Find downspouts and other vertical structures that squirrels climb. Measure the total length of each surface that needs protection and the width of each one, to decide whether single or double rows of spikes are needed. This tells you how many strips to order and where each one goes, so you avoid gaps from ordering too few and waste from ordering too many.
\n\nThe key installation principle is continuity. Squirrel spike strips should form an unbroken line along the whole length of the surface you are protecting, with no gaps between strips, no bare corners and no exposed sections where the strip ends before the surface does. Butt each strip tightly against the next. At corners and right-angle turns, run one strip right to the corner edge and start the next from the side edge, so the corner itself is covered. With Squirrel Spikes, separate the 12.5 cm snap segments when you need a shorter piece. Where the spiked surface meets a wall or post, take the spikes as close to the junction as you can, so a squirrel coming from the next structure has as little room as possible to land.
\n\nThe fixing method has to hold the strips firmly through weather, heat and cold, and the push of squirrels testing the barrier. Squirrel Spikes fix with nails or screws, double-sided tape, glue or strong zip ties. The stainless steel strips fix with UV-stabilized silicone adhesive, nails, screws or cable ties. On smooth, clean surfaces such as painted timber, PVC and finished metal, adhesive or double-sided tape along the full length of the base gives a firm hold. On rough or porous surfaces such as bare brick, rough-sawn timber and stone, nails or screws usually hold better. On railings, thin edges or anything you would rather not drill or glue, zip ties or cable ties around the surface give a secure mount that is easy to remove later.
\n\nA single row suits a surface no wider than the strip itself: 4.5 cm for Squirrel Spikes, or the 70 mm protection width of the stainless steel strips. Wider surfaces, including brick wall caps, stone wall tops, flat roof edges and timber beam tops, need two or more rows side by side to cover the full width and leave no walkable flat surface between the rows and the edges. Line the outer rows up with the outer edges of the surface, leaving no bare margin that a squirrel could use as a narrow path around the spikes.
\n\nSquirrel spike strips are made for horizontal and gently sloping surfaces. They are not suited to vertical surfaces such as downspouts, tree trunks and wall faces, where squirrels climb rather than walk. Vertical routes need a different approach, such as guards or smooth banding that make a climb harder, trimming branches that overhang the roof, and sealing entry points on the building. A fuller squirrel plan pairs spike strips on travel surfaces with steps like these on climbing routes.
\n\nSquirrel spikes need little looking after, but a small amount of attention now and then keeps them working well and helps them last.
\n\nLeaves, twigs, seed pods and other debris build up on spike strips over time, especially in autumn. A thick layer of debris makes a mat that a squirrel can walk across without touching the spikes, which cancels out the deterrent. Clear debris from your strips at least twice a year, in late autumn after the leaves fall and in spring before squirrels get busy. A stiff hand brush or a leaf blower removes most debris without disturbing the strips.
\n\nCheck your strips while you clear debris for any that have shifted, come away from the surface, or been damaged by falling branches, maintenance work or severe weather. Refix loose strips with fresh adhesive, tape or extra fixings. Replace any strip or segment with broken, bent or missing spikes, because a gap gives a squirrel somewhere to step. On the stainless steel strips, check that the pins are still pressed firmly into the base. Look at the surface itself too, for flaking paint, crumbling mortar or rotting timber, and fix those problems before they loosen the strips.
\n\nThe ultimate test of your squirrel spike installation is whether squirrels are still accessing the areas the spikes were installed to protect. After installation, monitor the protected surfaces and the areas beyond them for signs of continued squirrel activity including fresh scratch marks, droppings, gnaw marks, and sightings of squirrels on or near the spiked surfaces. If squirrels are still getting through, inspect the installation for gaps, insufficient width coverage, or sections where debris has created a bridge. If the installation appears complete and gap-free but squirrels are still penetrating, they may be accessing the area via an unprotected route that bypasses the spiked surfaces entirely, such as an overhanging branch, a neighbouring structure, or a vertical climbing route that the horizontal spikes do not address.
\n\nEven careful installations can leave blind spots that squirrels discover and use. Knowing the areas that are often missed helps you close these gaps before the squirrels find them.
\n\nGarden gates interrupt the fence line and create two unprotected surfaces, the gate top rail and both gate posts, that squirrels use to bypass spiked fence sections. If your fence tops are covered with squirrel spike strips but the gate is bare, the gate becomes the new preferred crossing point. Extend spike coverage across the full width of the gate top and onto both gate post caps to maintain continuity across the entire boundary line. Use adhesive mounting rather than screws on gates to avoid interfering with the gate's operation and structure.
\n\nWhere a fence meets a wall, where a wall meets a building, or where a shed roof abuts a boundary fence, a small unprotected zone at the junction gives squirrels a landing point to transition between structures. These transitions are easy to miss during installation because each individual structure may appear fully protected when viewed in isolation. Walk your boundary with a squirrel's eye view, looking specifically at every point where two structures meet, and add spike coverage or blocking material to any junction that offers a paw-sized gap in protection.
\n\nThere is a satisfying directness to squirrel spikes. They do not use chemicals that wash away. They do not rely on scents that fade in the wind or batteries that run flat in the cold. They sit on your fence, your wall or your roof edge and make it uncomfortable and awkward for a squirrel to walk across, without harming it. That simplicity is their strength, and it is why a physical barrier on the routes squirrels use is a sensible first step in keeping them away from your home.
\n\nChoose the strip that suits each surface: brown moulded plastic Squirrel Spikes or the stainless steel wire strips on a clear polycarbonate base. Fit them with complete coverage, no gaps and secure fixings. Clear debris, check them regularly, and extend coverage to any new route squirrels try. Do these things and your squirrel spikes will keep doing their job quietly, helping protect your property while the squirrels find somewhere else to run.
", "llm_summary": "Squirrel Spikes (SKU hard-molded-plastic-50cm-strips) sold by Squirrel Spikes Company at squirrelspikes.shop, $9 CAD per 50 cm strip. Squirrel spikes in hard moulded plastic, sold by the 50 cm strip. They sit on fence tops, rails, ledges and roof edges so a squirrel has nowhere comfortable to put its feet. Delivery across Canada is free on orders of $75 or more, otherwise a flat $22, and Express Shipping is $22 on any order. Orders are handled in 24 to 48 hours and delivered in 5 to 7 days. Change-of-mind returns are accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy, and anything that arrives damaged, faulty or not as described is put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the buyer's province or territory applies.", "returnable": true, "return_policy": "Change-of-mind returns accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy: original packaging, proof of purchase, tracked return postage at the customer's cost, and the original shipping charge is not refunded. Damaged, incorrect, faulty or not-as-described goods are put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the customer's province or territory applies and is unaffected.", "shipping_profile": "standard", "warranty": null, "brand": "Squirrel Spikes Company", "gtin": null, "mpn": null, "condition": "new", "url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/squirrel-spikes/", "canonical_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/squirrel-spikes/", "json_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/api/products/squirrel-spikes.json", "updated_at": "2026-09-15", "compare_at_price": 11 }, { "id": "ss-spikes-50cm-strips", "sku": "ss-spikes-50cm-strips", "title": "Anti Squirrel Spikes", "slug": "ss-spikes-50cm-strips", "price": 10, "currency": "CAD", "availability": "in_stock", "category": "squirrel-spikes", "category_label": "Squirrel Spikes", "tags": [ "squirrel", "spikes", "stainless", "deterrent" ], "colors": [ "Clear base, stainless steel" ], "materials": [ "Polycarbonate base, stainless steel wire" ], "dimensions": "500 mm x 23 mm base, 115 mm spikes", "weight": null, "images": [ "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/ss-spikes-50cm-strips/main-ss-spikes-50cm-strips.png", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/ss-spikes-50cm-strips/ss-spikes-50cm-strips-01.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/ss-spikes-50cm-strips/ss-spikes-50cm-strips-02.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/ss-spikes-50cm-strips/ss-spikes-50cm-strips-03.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/ss-spikes-50cm-strips/ss-spikes-50cm-strips-04.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/ss-spikes-50cm-strips/ss-spikes-50cm-strips-05.jpg" ], "description_short": "The 5 mm base is hard to see from the ground, and the strip follows flat, curved or uneven surfaces.", "description": "You do not need to hire a pest control company to keep squirrels off your property. With the right strips, basic tools and a clear idea of where squirrels get onto your home, you can often fit anti squirrel spikes yourself over a weekend. It is a job many homeowners take on themselves, saving on installation fees and getting the satisfaction of solving a stubborn problem with their own hands.
\n\nSquirrel deterrent spikes are one of the easier pest control jobs to do yourself. They need no wiring, no special equipment and no chemicals to keep reapplying. Fitting them means fixing spike strips to flat or curved surfaces with adhesive, screws, nails or cable ties, which anyone comfortable with basic home maintenance can handle. Whether you buy ready-made strips or build your own, the aim is the same: a humane deterrent that stays in place and makes it much harder for squirrels to use your fences, walls and roofline as a path onto your home.
\n\nBefore you begin any squirrel spike project, the first decision is whether to purchase commercially manufactured anti squirrel spikes or build your own from scratch. Both approaches produce functional results, but they differ in cost, time investment, consistency, and long-term performance.
\n\nReady-made squirrel deterrent spikes are made for the job, so you do not have to work out a design yourself. The stainless steel strip sold here has 1.3 mm wire spikes, 115 mm long, at 60 spikes per metre, spreading 70 mm from tip to tip on a clear polycarbonate base 500 mm long and 23 mm wide. The moulded plastic Squirrel Spikes strip is 50 cm long and 4.5 cm wide and does not rust. Both come in even lengths that butt end to end without gaps, and both fix with everyday methods such as adhesive, screws, nails or ties.
\n\nFor most homeowners, ready-made spikes are the quickest route to a finished job. You buy the strips, fix them to the surfaces squirrels use, and you are done. There is no building, no hunting for materials and far less guesswork, because the spike length, spacing and base are already set. No spike stops every squirrel every time, but a ready-made strip gives you a consistent, humane deterrent without first having to trial a design of your own.
\n\nBuilding your own DIY squirrel spikes appeals to homeowners who enjoy hands-on projects, want to customize the spike dimensions for a specific application, or prefer to use materials they already have on hand. A home-built spike strip can be tailored to the exact width of your fence, the precise profile of your wall cap, or the specific angle of your roof edge in ways that a standard commercial strip may not accommodate without modification.
\n\nDIY spikes also give you room to experiment. Common home builds use nails driven through a wooden batten, cable ties standing upright through a strip of rigid plastic, or galvanized wire bent into loops and fixed to a base board. If you try one, blunt every point and wear gloves and safety glasses, because the aim is to discourage squirrels, not injure them, and sharp points put you, your family, pets and wildlife at risk. A home build also needs checking in use, so watch how squirrels react to a short piece before you make more.
\n\nSome homeowners use ready-made anti squirrel spikes for the long fence and wall runs, then make small custom pieces for awkward spots where a standard strip does not sit neatly. Post caps, odd corners, pipe brackets and curved surfaces can be fiddly. The stainless steel strip mounts on flat, curved or irregular surfaces, and the plastic strip separates into 12.5 cm snap segments, so try those first before building anything. Ready-made strips keep the spacing even along the main runs, and any home-made piece should have every point blunted.
\n\nWhether you buy squirrel deterrent spikes or build your own, a few things affect how well they work: spike height, firmness, spacing, surface coverage and tip safety. None of these has a single pass mark, so use the points below as a checklist, not a rulebook.
\n\nSpikes need enough height that stepping over them or stretching across to a clear patch behind is hard for a squirrel. The stainless steel strip sold here has 115 mm spikes that spread 70 mm from tip to tip, and the moulded plastic strip uses hard cone spikes on a 4.5 cm wide base. If you build your own, measure height from the top of the base to the tip, not from the mounting surface, and see how squirrels react to a short test piece before you make more.
\n\nSpikes should stay firm when a squirrel pushes against them so the barrier keeps its shape. The stainless steel strip uses 1.3 mm stainless steel wire with each pin pressed into the polycarbonate base, and the plastic strip has hard moulded cone spikes. For home builds, firmness depends on the material: thin wire, plastic cable ties and wooden skewers bend or snap more easily than nails or heavier wire, so they tend to wear out sooner. Whatever you use, check now and then for pins that have bent or worked loose.
\n\nThe gaps between spikes matter as much as the spikes. If there is a clear, flat path between them, a squirrel can pick its way through using the base as a walkway. The stainless steel strip carries 60 spikes per metre along its length, with the tips spreading 70 mm wide. Spacing is an easy detail to skimp on in home builds, where pins set wide apart to save materials leave easy footholds, so keep home-made pins close together and check them against how squirrels actually move.
\n\nYour spikes should cover the full width of the surface you are protecting. A narrow strip centred on a wide fence rail leaves bare edges on both sides that a squirrel can walk along. Measure the width of the surface and compare it with the spike spread: the stainless steel strip covers 70 mm from tip to tip on a 23 mm base, and the plastic strip is 4.5 cm wide. For wider surfaces, fit two or more rows side by side, with the outer rows lined up with the outer edges of the surface.
\n\nSquirrel deterrent spikes are meant to discourage, not injure. They work by making a surface awkward and unsteady to stand on, and the spikes sold here are non-lethal. If a home build uses nails or wire, file or grind every tip until it is blunt before fitting, and wear gloves and safety glasses while you work, because sharp points can hurt people, pets and wildlife. Rules on dealing with wildlife vary by province and municipality, so check local rules if you are unsure.
\n\nIf you choose to make your own squirrel spikes, these common home designs use easy-to-find materials and basic tools. Blunt every point and test a short piece first.
\n\nThis is one of the simpler home designs. Take a length of treated wooden batten wide enough to cover the surface you want to protect. Drive stainless steel or galvanized nails up through the batten from the underside so the ends stand up from the top, spacing them closely and evenly across its width and length. Before fitting, file or grind every nail end until it is blunt, wearing gloves and safety glasses, because sharp points are an injury risk to people, pets and wildlife. Then fix the batten to your fence top or wall cap with screws or adhesive.
\n\nThe nail-through-batten method is cheap and lets you make the strip any length or width. Its drawbacks are weight, since a wooden batten is heavier than a plastic or polycarbonate base strip, and wear, since wood breaks down outdoors over time. Pressure-treated wood lasts longer than untreated wood, but the batten will still need checking and replacing in time. The stainless steel and plastic strips sold here have no wood to rot, though any strip is worth checking now and then for loose fixings.
\n\nCut short lengths of galvanized or stainless steel wire and bend each piece into a U or V shape. Drill a row of small holes along a strip of rigid material such as aluminum angle, PVC strip or treated wood, and push the wire loops through so both ends of each wire stand up as a pair of spikes. Fix the wires with a dab of epoxy or by crimping them under the strip. Cut wire ends are sharp, so file every end blunt and wear gloves and safety glasses. Pick a base material that suits the surface you are fixing to.
\n\nFor a quick, short-term fix, heavy-duty cable ties can be fixed along the top of a fence at close intervals, using screw-fixed saddle clips or threaded through holes drilled in a mounting strip. The standing tails act as semi-rigid spikes that make the surface awkward to walk along. This is the least durable home option, because cable ties break down in sunlight and turn brittle outdoors over time. Trimmed tails can leave sharp edges, so cut them square and smooth them off. Treat it as a stopgap while you plan a longer-lasting fix.
\n\nWhatever method you choose, test a home build before you fit it across your whole property. Make a short test piece, fix it where squirrels are active, and watch it for several days to see whether they still get across. If they pick their way through or go around it, change the height, spacing or width and try again. A test piece takes little time to make and saves the frustration of finding a design does not work after you have fitted it along a whole fence line. While you watch, check for pins that have worked loose or are sharp.
\n\nWhether you are fitting ready-made strips or home-built spikes, the same steps help you get complete, secure coverage.
\n\nWalk your entire property boundary and identify every surface that squirrels are using or could use as a travel route. Measure the total linear length of fence tops, wall caps, roof edges, and other surfaces that need protection. Note the width of each surface, the location of corners, posts, gates, and junctions, and any specific challenges such as curved surfaces, irregular profiles, or hard-to-reach areas. Record everything on a simple sketch or list so you can calculate materials accurately and plan your installation sequence.
\n\nBased on your survey, buy or prepare the spike strips, fixings such as UV-stabilized silicone adhesive, screws, nails or cable ties, and any tools for trimming strips to length. For ready-made strips, divide your measured total by 50 cm to get the number of strips, then add a few extra for corners, post tops and cuts. For home builds, make all your spikes and base strips before you start, so you are not stopping to build halfway along a fence. Gather a sturdy ladder, work gloves, safety glasses, a tape measure, a pencil and a saw or heavy-duty snips.
\n\nClean every mounting surface along the full installation route. Remove moss, lichen, dirt, loose paint, and cobwebs that would prevent adhesive from bonding or create an unstable base for the strips. Allow timber surfaces to dry completely before applying adhesive. On metal surfaces, wipe with a degreasing solvent to ensure a clean bonding surface. On masonry, brush away loose material and dust. Clean surfaces bond better, hold longer, and produce a more professional finished appearance.
\n\nBegin at one end of each fence or wall run and work methodically toward the other end. Apply adhesive or fixings, press the strip into position, and move to the next section. Butt each strip tightly against the previous one with no gap. At posts, cover the post top with a short spike section before continuing along the next panel. At corners, cut one strip to fit the angle precisely and start the next strip on the perpendicular surface. At gates, apply strips across the gate top and both gate posts to maintain continuous coverage across the entire boundary.
\n\nAfter you finish, walk the whole route again and check every section for gaps between strips, bare post tops, unprotected gate sections and any spots where a strip has not stuck down properly. Pay close attention to corners and junctions, where gaps are most likely. Fill any gaps straight away, because even a short bare section can give a squirrel a place to land and a way around the spikes.
\n\nOver the first few weeks after fitting, watch the protected surfaces for signs of squirrel activity, such as scratch marks, droppings or squirrels testing the barrier. Fewer of these signs along the protected route suggests the spikes are doing their job. If squirrels are still crossing a section, look for a gap in coverage, a strip that has come loose, a surface wider than the spike spread, or another route around the spikes, such as an overhanging branch or a nearby roof.
\n\nAnti squirrel spikes work better alongside other steps that deal with the different ways squirrels get onto your property and what draws them there.
\n\nTrim tree branches back so they do not hang over or sit close to your fence, wall or roofline. Overhanging branches let squirrels jump or drop onto your property past the spiked edges. Give as much clearance as you safely can, and use a qualified arborist for large limbs or anything near power lines. Trimming costs little and closes a common way around fence-level spikes.
\n\nSquirrels kept off a spiked fence may try to reach your roof by climbing downspouts, pipes and other vertical structures next to the building. Cone-shaped guards or smooth metal bands fitted around these make climbing much harder and help close the upward route, while the fence spikes cover the route along the top. Home-made climbing guards can be cut from sheet metal or smooth plastic, shaped into a cone and clamped around the pipe. File cut metal edges smooth and wear gloves while you work.
\n\nCheck your roof, soffits, fascia and wall vents for gaps, holes and worn sections that a squirrel could chew wider to get inside. Close these openings with heavy-gauge galvanized mesh, sheet metal or vent covers made for the job, which are much harder for a squirrel to chew through than expanding foam, light plastic or thin wood. Before you seal anything, make sure no squirrels, including young, are inside, so no animal is shut in. Sealed entry points give you a second line of defence if a squirrel gets past the spikes.
\n\nScent or taste-based squirrel repellents can be applied to specific items squirrels are chewing, such as wooden deck posts, outdoor furniture and cable runs. Capsaicin-based sprays are a common choice for discouraging gnawing on surfaces that are hard to protect with a physical barrier. Always follow the label directions. Repellents need reapplying from time to time, but they add a useful extra layer for targeted problem spots.
\n\nIf bird feeders are drawing squirrels to your yard, swap standard feeders for squirrel-resistant models with weight-activated port closures or outer cages that let small birds reach the seed while making it much harder for squirrels. Taking away the easy food gives squirrels less reason to keep testing your spikes, and it helps your whole plan by dealing with what draws them in as well as how they get in.
\n\nWhether your anti squirrel spikes are ready-made or home-built, a little seasonal upkeep helps keep them working well.
\n\nLeaves, twigs, and windblown material accumulate on spike strips, particularly during autumn. This debris creates a mat above the spike tips that squirrels can walk across without contacting the pins. Brush debris from your spikes in late autumn after leaf fall and again in early spring before peak squirrel activity season. A stiff hand brush or a blast from a leaf blower clears most accumulation quickly.
\n\nDuring your annual property maintenance routine, inspect the full length of your spike installation for loose strips, broken pins, adhesive failures, and surface deterioration beneath the mounting points. Reattach or replace any compromised sections immediately. For DIY timber-based spikes, check the batten for rot, splitting, or warping that could affect the spike positions. Replace deteriorated DIY sections with fresh builds or upgrade them to commercial strips for improved longevity.
\n\nFitting squirrel deterrent spikes is one of those home projects where the effort is modest, the skills are basic and the job is done quickly. A weekend of measuring, fixing and securing strips along your fence tops, wall caps and roof edges gives you a deterrent that works day and night without batteries or chemicals, needing only a light check now and then. Ready-made spikes are ready to fit out of the box, while home-built spikes give hands-on homeowners the satisfaction of making their own, as long as every point is blunted.
\n\nWhichever route you take, the key is being thorough. Cover every surface, close every gap, protect every post top and gate, and pair your spikes with branch trimming, climbing guards and sealed entry points for a layered defence that makes your property much harder for squirrels to use. Do it carefully, check it now and then, and your anti squirrel spikes will keep discouraging an animal that is unlikely to give up on its own.
", "llm_summary": "Anti Squirrel Spikes (SKU ss-spikes-50cm-strips) sold by Squirrel Spikes Company at squirrelspikes.shop, $10 CAD per 50 cm strip. Stainless steel squirrel spikes on a clear polycarbonate base, sold by the 50 cm strip. They make a ledge, wall top or rail an awkward place for a squirrel to walk or sit. Delivery across Canada is free on orders of $75 or more, otherwise a flat $22, and Express Shipping is $22 on any order. Orders are handled in 24 to 48 hours and delivered in 5 to 7 days. Change-of-mind returns are accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy, and anything that arrives damaged, faulty or not as described is put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the buyer's province or territory applies.", "returnable": true, "return_policy": "Change-of-mind returns accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy: original packaging, proof of purchase, tracked return postage at the customer's cost, and the original shipping charge is not refunded. Damaged, incorrect, faulty or not-as-described goods are put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the customer's province or territory applies and is unaffected.", "shipping_profile": "standard", "warranty": null, "brand": "Squirrel Spikes Company", "gtin": null, "mpn": null, "condition": "new", "url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/ss-spikes-50cm-strips/", "canonical_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/ss-spikes-50cm-strips/", "json_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/api/products/ss-spikes-50cm-strips.json", "updated_at": "2026-09-15", "compare_at_price": 12 }, { "id": "fence-spikes", "sku": "ss-spike-04", "title": "Fence Spikes For Squirrels", "slug": "fence-spikes", "price": 9, "currency": "CAD", "availability": "in_stock", "category": "squirrel-spikes", "category_label": "Squirrel Spikes", "tags": [ "squirrel", "fence", "spikes", "stainless" ], "colors": [ "Clear base, stainless steel" ], "materials": [ "Polycarbonate base, stainless steel wire" ], "dimensions": "500 mm x 23 mm base, 115 mm spikes", "weight": null, "images": [ "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/fence-spikes/main-fence-spikes.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/fence-spikes/fence-spikes-01.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/fence-spikes/fence-spikes-02.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/fence-spikes/fence-spikes-03.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/fence-spikes/fence-spikes-04.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/fence-spikes/fence-spikes-05.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/fence-spikes/fence-spikes-06.jpg" ], "description_short": "Run them along a fence rail or gate top so squirrels stop using it as a path to your roof, feeder or garden.", "description": "Your fence is a squirrel highway. While you see a boundary between your property and the neighbour's, squirrels see a raised path, up away from ground predators, that links the yards, sheds, garages and rooflines along your street. A single fence line can carry squirrels from several yards straight to your bird feeders, your roof, your soffit vents and, in time, your attic. Much of the damage that follows, such as chewed fascia boards, gnawed cables, torn insulation, raided feeders and dug-up garden beds, can start with an open fence top that squirrels cross without a second thought.
\n\nFence spikes for squirrels help close that route. A continuous row of spike strips along the top of your fence makes it awkward and uncomfortable for squirrels to walk across, balance on or grip. The result is a boundary that does two jobs: it keeps your yard private, and it makes the raised route squirrels use to reach the weak points on your property much harder to use. This guide covers fence tops: the products, how to install them and the practical steps that make fence spikes a strong first line of defence in squirrel control at home.
\n\nOf all the surfaces on a home property, fences are often a good place to start with squirrel deterrents. Understanding why fences matter so much helps explain why protecting them can go a long way for a fairly modest outlay.
\n\nA residential fence line is not an isolated structure. It connects to neighbouring fences, garden walls, sheds, garages, pergolas and, in many layouts, the house itself. This means a squirrel that steps onto your fence at any point along the boundary has a path to every structure the fence touches or passes near. A single unprotected fence can give a squirrel access to several buildings, gardens and roof access points without ever touching the ground. Protecting the fence line with spike strips breaks up this network in one job, which is why the fence is a sensible first priority when you are dealing with squirrels around your home.
\n\nSquirrels prefer raised travel routes because height gives them speed, safety from ground-level predators and a clear view of the area around them. In many neighbourhoods, fences are the easiest raised route to find. Trees give height but mean climbing up and down at each end. Walls give height too but are less common than fences in most yards. Fences offer a continuous raised path that often runs the full length and width of a property, which makes them a go-to route for squirrels in the area.
\n\nInstalling fence spikes for squirrels around your whole boundary creates a perimeter defence that helps stop squirrels before they reach the structures on your property. Rather than protecting buildings, feeders and garden beds one at a time, perimeter fence protection deals with the problem closer to its source, by making it harder for squirrels to use the raised routes that lead to everything inside. This approach is often simpler and better value than protecting each target separately, because one continuous installation covers the routes to many of them at once.
\n\nSeveral kinds of fence top deterrent are sold for fences, each using different materials and shapes to suit different fence types, looks and needs. Squirrel Spikes Company sells two of them: the stainless steel strip on this page and the brown moulded plastic Squirrel Spikes strip.
\n\nStainless steel spike strips use rigid metal pins fixed along a base strip on top of the fence. The strip on this page has stainless steel wire pins, 1.3 mm thick and 115 mm long, pressed into a clear polycarbonate base 500 mm long, 23 mm wide and 5 mm high. With 60 spikes per metre and a protection width of 70 mm tip to tip, it makes a fence top awkward for a squirrel to walk or balance on. It fixes with silicone adhesive, nails, screws or cable ties, and suits long fence runs and spots where squirrels keep coming back.
\n\nSome spike strips are made entirely of clear polycarbonate, with plastic pins that are hard to see from the ground, and people often choose them for front fences and decorative fencing. The store does not sell all-plastic clear strips. Its fence strip pairs a clear polycarbonate base, only 5 mm high, with thin stainless steel pins, which keeps the base low-key on the fence top. Whatever you choose, check your strips each season and replace any that have cracked, gone brittle or come loose.
\n\nPlastic toothed fence toppers are moulded strips with rows of short, triangular teeth that make the fence top uncomfortable to walk on. They look less aggressive than pointed spikes, and some people prefer them for front fences. Because the teeth are short, a squirrel may find enough flat space between them to pick its way across, so toppers work more as a mild discouragement than a firm barrier. The store does not sell toothed toppers; its moulded plastic option is the brown Squirrel Spikes strip, which has cone spikes rather than low teeth.
\n\nRotating bars are rollers mounted on brackets along the fence top. When a squirrel tries to grip the bar, it spins under the animal's weight, which makes it hard to get a footing and can tip the squirrel off. Rotating bars have a clean look that suits modern fence designs. They work best on straight runs where the bar can spin freely along its full length, and are less practical at corners, posts and junctions where the roller has to stop. The store does not sell rotating bars. For fences with frequent posts and changes of direction, spike strips like the stainless strip on this page give more even coverage.
\n\nDifferent fences give you different mounting surfaces, and the right fence spikes for squirrels are the ones that attach securely to your fence without weakening the fence or getting in the way of how the spikes work.
\n\nWood panel fences with a flat top rail give you a good mounting surface for fence spike strips. The flat rail offers a stable base for strips fixed with adhesive or screws, and wood bonds well with outdoor adhesives. For panels with an arched or scalloped top, the stainless strip on this page mounts on curved and irregular surfaces, so lay the strips along the top edge and butt them end to end so no gaps are left at the high and low points of the arch.
\n\nPrivacy fences with a horizontal top rail offer the same flat mounting surface as panel fences and take spike strips the same way. Fences without a top rail, where the vertical boards or pickets end at the top with no capping piece, give a narrower and sometimes uneven surface. On these fences, fix the spike strips to a continuous length of pressure-treated wood screwed across the tops of the boards to make a flat, stable base for the strips. This board also ties the tops of the boards together and gives a neater finish beneath the spikes.
\n\nMetal railing fences with a flat top rail take spike strips fixed with outdoor adhesive, self-tapping screws or cable ties, depending on the rail shape and material. For round-top railings, cable ties wrapped around the strip base and pulled tight around the rail give a secure hold that follows the curve. Ornamental metal fences with pointed tops may look like they deter squirrels on their own, but squirrels can grip the flat faces of the uprights below the points. Adding spike strips to the flat top rail between the uprights closes this gap.
\n\nMany homes pair a low brick or stone wall with a wood or metal fence on top. The wall cap gives squirrels a second flat surface below the fence line that they can use as a path of its own. Protecting both the wall cap and the fence top leaves no unprotected ledge at either height along the boundary. Fix spike strips to the wall cap with an outdoor silicone adhesive or masonry screws, and fit separate strips on the fence top above using the method that suits the fence material.
\n\nMany fences have posts that sit above or between the panels, whether they are wood, vinyl, metal or concrete. The narrow post top is a different surface from the panel's top rail, and squirrels will use unprotected post tops as stepping stones to get around spiked panels. Cover every post top with spike strip as well. For narrow post tops, the brown Squirrel Spikes strip is made of 12.5 cm snap segments that can be separated to fit. These small details at each post are easy to miss during installation but matter for keeping the barrier continuous.
\n\nA careful, step-by-step installation gives you full coverage, a secure fix and a finished result that starts working from the first day. A little checking over the seasons helps keep it that way.
\n\nWalk the full length of every fence line you plan to protect and measure the total linear metres accurately. Note any corners, posts, gates, and junctions where the spike strips will need to be cut, angled, or supplemented with additional pieces. Count the number of posts and gate tops that need individual coverage. Record the width of the fence top rail to confirm that your chosen spike strip width covers the full surface. This detailed measurement prevents both under-ordering, which leaves gaps in protection, and over-ordering, which wastes material.
\n\nClean the fence top rail along the full installation length. Remove moss, lichen, loose paint, cobwebs, and accumulated grime that would prevent adhesive from bonding or create an unstable base for the spike strips. On wood fences, allow the surface to dry thoroughly after cleaning, as moisture trapped beneath an adhesive-mounted strip will weaken the bond and eventually cause the strip to detach. On metal fences, remove any surface rust with a wire brush and wipe with a solvent to ensure a clean, oil-free bonding surface.
\n\nBegin at one end of the fence run and work steadily toward the other end, pressing each strip firmly into the adhesive or fixing it as you go. Butt each strip tightly against the last one with no gap between them. At posts, run the strip right up to the post face and cover the post top before starting the next panel. At corners, bring one strip right to the corner edge and start the next strip on the other face, making sure the corner point itself is covered by one strip or the other.
\n\nGates are easy to miss in fence spike installations, and once the fence panels beside them are protected, a gate is an obvious place for a squirrel to try. Fix spike strips across the full width of each gate top rail, using adhesive rather than screws to avoid weakening the gate. Extend coverage to both gate post tops and to any flat hardware on the hinge and latch posts that a squirrel could use as a foothold to get past the spiked gate.
\n\nFences require periodic maintenance including painting, staining, and panel replacement. When installing fence spikes for squirrels, consider how the spikes will interact with future maintenance activities. Adhesive-mounted strips on wood fences may need to be removed and reinstalled when the fence is repainted. Screw-mounted strips can be unscrewed, the fence maintained, and the strips refixed. Planning for maintenance access at the installation stage prevents the frustration of discovering that your spike strips need to be destroyed to reach the surface beneath them.
\n\nEven quality fence repellent spikes can fail to deter squirrels if specific installation mistakes create vulnerabilities that the animals discover and exploit.
\n\nEvery fence post top that is not covered is a stepping stone that lets a squirrel get around the spiked panels between the posts. On a typical backyard fence, a squirrel can easily leap from one unprotected post top to the next, using the posts as a row of safe landing pads that skip over the spiked sections entirely. Covering every post top is not an optional finishing touch. It is part of what makes the installation work as intended.
\n\nSome spike strips have thin, flexible plastic pins that bend flat when a squirrel steps on them, and a squirrel can then walk across them as if they were not there. Before you buy, check what the pins are made of and how they sit in the base. The strip on this page has stainless steel wire pins 1.3 mm thick and 115 mm long pressed into a polycarbonate base, and the brown Squirrel Spikes strip has hard moulded plastic cone spikes. Pins that fold under a squirrel's weight are an easy mistake to avoid.
\n\nThe points where your fence changes direction, meets a wall, or connects to a building are natural weak spots where coverage gaps tend to occur. These junctions are precisely where squirrels transition between structures, and an unprotected junction is all a squirrel needs to move from a spiked fence to an unspiked wall or building surface. Fill every junction gap with spike material, even if the section is only a few centimetres long, to maintain the continuous barrier that effective squirrel deterrence requires.
\n\nFallen leaves, twigs and yard debris that settle on fence top spike strips can form a mat above the spike tips, letting a squirrel walk across the debris without touching the spikes. Fall is the peak season for this problem, and it lines up with the time squirrels are busy preparing for winter. Clear debris from your fence spikes regularly through the fall, and check again in early spring so the spikes are fully exposed before squirrels get busy again.
\n\nFence spikes for squirrels are a strong first step for protecting a fence line, and adding a few other measures helps cover the routes that spikes alone do not deal with.
\n\nA tree branch hanging over your fence gives squirrels a way over the top that drops them onto your property past the spiked fence line. Trim branches well back from your fence, walls and roof so squirrels have a harder time using them as a launch pad. Overhanging branches are a common way for squirrels to get past an otherwise complete fence spike installation, so this step matters if trees grow near your boundary, on your side or your neighbour's.
\n\nIf your fence runs close to downspouts, utility poles or other vertical structures squirrels can climb, they may climb up and jump sideways onto the fence past the spiked section. Fitting climbing guards to nearby vertical surfaces makes this sideways route harder, so squirrels are left facing the spiked fence top itself, which is a much harder way over than a route around it.
\n\nAfter installing pest spike strips for fences, observe your fence line over the following weeks for signs of continued squirrel activity. Look for fresh scratch marks, droppings, or sightings of squirrels on or near the fence that indicate they are testing the barrier or have found an unprotected section you missed during installation. Extend your spike coverage to address any new vulnerabilities you identify, and continue monitoring as the squirrel population adjusts its behaviour in response to the barrier. This adaptive approach ensures your fence protection evolves alongside the challenge it was installed to meet.
\n\nA fence with squirrel spikes along its top does two jobs. It marks your boundary and it helps defend it. Every metre of spike strip you install closes off another stretch of the raised route squirrels use to reach your roof, your garden and your home. The cost is modest, the installation is straightforward, and the result is a boundary that makes squirrel traffic much harder without trapping or poisoning a single animal, with only an occasional check, and without the repeated reapplication that chemical and scent-based repellents need.
\n\nStart at the section of fence closest to where squirrels are causing the most damage, and work outward until every fence panel, post top, gate top and corner is covered. When the last strip is in place and the last gap is closed, your fence becomes much more of the barrier it always looked like, and the squirrels that have been running across it every day will have a far harder time using your property as their route.
\n\nThe spikes stand up from a clear base along the fence top, so a squirrel has nowhere flat to put its feet and tends to look for another route.
\n\nMost fence tops with a flat, solid surface can take them. Use UV-stabilised silicone adhesive, screws or cable ties to suit timber, metal or masonry.
\n\nThey are a non-lethal deterrent that makes a surface uncomfortable rather than injuring an animal. Fit them where people and pets will not brush against the spike tips.
\n\nNo. Most people fit them themselves with silicone adhesive, screws or cable ties.
\n\nWe do not recommend painting them. The base is clear, so it takes on the colour of the fence underneath.
\n\nWe do not publish a lifespan. How well a strip stays put depends mostly on the fixing, so clean the surface first and check the strips now and then.
\n\nYes. The same strip suits wall tops, ledges and window sills, and a wide surface may need two rows side by side.
\n\nAdhesive and cable ties leave the surface intact, while screws and nails leave small holes. Choose the fixing that suits the surface and whether you may want to remove the strips later.
\n\nStrips fixed with screws or cable ties can usually be taken off and refitted. Strips glued in place are harder to remove cleanly.
\n\nThe wire spikes can be seen up close, but the clear 5 mm base is hard to see from the ground.
", "llm_summary": "Fence Spikes For Squirrels (SKU ss-spike-04) sold by Squirrel Spikes Company at squirrelspikes.shop, $9 CAD per 50 cm strip. Stainless steel fence spikes on a clear polycarbonate base, sold by the 50 cm strip. A fence top is a squirrel highway. These strips make it an uncomfortable one. Delivery across Canada is free on orders of $75 or more, otherwise a flat $22, and Express Shipping is $22 on any order. Orders are handled in 24 to 48 hours and delivered in 5 to 7 days. Change-of-mind returns are accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy, and anything that arrives damaged, faulty or not as described is put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the buyer's province or territory applies.", "returnable": true, "return_policy": "Change-of-mind returns accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy: original packaging, proof of purchase, tracked return postage at the customer's cost, and the original shipping charge is not refunded. Damaged, incorrect, faulty or not-as-described goods are put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the customer's province or territory applies and is unaffected.", "shipping_profile": "standard", "warranty": null, "brand": "Squirrel Spikes Company", "gtin": null, "mpn": null, "condition": "new", "url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/fence-spikes/", "canonical_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/fence-spikes/", "json_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/api/products/fence-spikes.json", "updated_at": "2026-09-15", "compare_at_price": 12 }, { "id": "gutter-spikes", "sku": "ss-spike-05", "title": "Gutter Spikes", "slug": "gutter-spikes", "price": 9, "currency": "CAD", "availability": "in_stock", "category": "squirrel-spikes", "category_label": "Squirrel Spikes", "tags": [ "squirrel", "gutter", "spikes", "stainless" ], "colors": [ "Clear base, stainless steel" ], "materials": [ "Polycarbonate base, stainless steel wire" ], "dimensions": "500 mm x 23 mm base, 115 mm spikes", "weight": null, "images": [ "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/gutter-spikes/main-gutter-spikes.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/gutter-spikes/gutter-spikes-01.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/gutter-spikes/gutter-spikes-02.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/gutter-spikes/gutter-spikes-03.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/gutter-spikes/gutter-spikes-04.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/gutter-spikes/gutter-spikes-05.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/gutter-spikes/gutter-spikes-06.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/gutter-spikes/gutter-spikes-07.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/squirrel-spikes/gutter-spikes/gutter-spikes-08.jpg" ], "description_short": "They sit along the gutter lip or roof edge so it stops being an easy walkway. Work safely at height, or ask a professional for a high roof.", "description": "Your gutters do more than carry rainwater. They form a sheltered ledge around the edge of your roof, and that ledge draws squirrels and birds looking for somewhere to rest, nest or get onto the roof. Squirrels use the gutter edge as a runway to reach fascia boards they can chew through. Birds perch on the edge and can leave droppings and nesting material in the channel, which adds to blockages and overflow down your walls. Many of these problems start with a bare gutter edge that animals can use freely.
\n\nGutter spikes make that ledge harder to use. A continuous line of spike strips fixed along the outer edge of your gutter makes it uncomfortable for squirrels and birds to land, perch, walk or nest there. The spikes are non-lethal. They make the surface awkward to use, so animals are more likely to move on, which can help protect your gutters, fascias and roof space from animal damage and mess. Spikes do not keep leaves or other debris out of the gutter, so regular gutter cleaning is still needed. This guide covers choosing, installing and looking after gutter spikes.
\n\nGutters sit in an exposed spot on your property. They run along the join between the roof and the wall, often for the full length of the building, and they offer shelter, height and easy reach to the roof. That mix makes them appealing to squirrels and birds. Knowing the problems a bare gutter edge can attract helps explain why gutter spikes are worth considering as part of your plan.
\n\nBirds may use gutters as a place to rest and shelter under the edge of the roof. Over time, regular perching can turn into nesting in the gutter channel itself, with twigs, leaves, feathers and other material that slow the flow of water. A gutter blocked by nesting material cannot drain well, and the overflow can soak exterior walls, damage paint and trim, and lead to damp problems inside. Droppings that build up in and around the gutter also stain fascia boards and walls and are unpleasant to clean.
\n\nSquirrels use gutters as a pathway along the roofline, travelling the length of the building to find the easiest point to get into the roof space. The gutter edge gives them a steady, raised platform from which to check fascia boards, soffits and roof edges for gaps they can use or chew wider. A squirrel that reaches your gutter is close to your roof, and from there it can be a short chew through aging wood to the warm attic inside. Fixing spike strips along the gutter edge makes that route harder to use. Squirrels can also reach a roof from overhanging branches, so trim those back too.
\n\nEven without full nests, squirrels and birds that use your gutters can leave droppings, fur, feathers, food scraps and bits of nesting material in the channel. This mixes with windblown leaves and grit and can build into blockages, often at joints, corners and downspout openings. Blocked gutters overflow in heavy rain, sending water down walls, around window frames and into the ground beside the building. Spikes can help cut down the mess animals add, but they do not stop leaves or grit, so regular gutter cleaning is still the main way to prevent blockages.
\n\nDroppings in and around gutters are more than unsightly. They build up on fascias, walls and paths below busy perches and are unpleasant to clean. When you clean them, wear gloves and a dust mask and avoid stirring up dry dust. Gutter spikes that make perching harder can help reduce how much builds up in the first place.
\n\nGutter spikes come in a few different styles, made to suit different gutter shapes, animals and looks. The styles below are described as general information. The Gutter Spikes we sell are stainless steel wire spikes on a clear polycarbonate base.
\n\nStainless steel spike strips use stiff metal wire spikes fixed along the outer lip of the gutter. Some have a steel base. The Gutter Spikes we sell press 1.3 mm stainless steel wires into a clear polycarbonate base that is 500 mm long, 23 mm wide and 5 mm high. Stainless steel is a common choice for wet outdoor spots because it resists rust. We do not list a lifespan, so check the strips when you clean your gutters.
\n\nStainless steel spike strips from different makers come in single-row, double-row and fan-shaped layouts. Single rows suit narrow edges, while wider layouts cover more of the surface. The Gutter Spikes strip has 60 spikes per metre spread across a protection width of 70 mm from tip to tip, so check that width against the gutter lip or ledge you want to protect.
\n\nSome spike strips are made entirely of clear polycarbonate, spikes included. From the ground, clear spikes can be hard to spot against the gutter and fascia, which helps where the look of the building matters. How stiff the spikes are varies from product to product. The Gutter Spikes we sell pair a clear polycarbonate base with stainless steel wire spikes.
\n\nSome spike products made by others come with built-in clips that grip the gutter lip without adhesive or screws. They slide over the outer edge and hold by spring tension, so no tools or holes are needed. Clip-on styles can suit plastic and vinyl gutters, where drilling could cause leaks, and rentals where you want to avoid marks. The Gutter Spikes we sell are fixed with UV-stabilised silicone adhesive, nails, screws or cable ties.
\n\nThe holding strength of clip-on systems depends on the gutter profile matching the clip dimensions. Before purchasing clip-on gutter spikes, confirm that the clip is compatible with your specific gutter profile, whether it is half-round, square, ogee, or deep-flow. A clip designed for a half-round profile will not grip securely on a square gutter and may detach under wind load or when an animal lands on the strip.
\n\nSome makers offer products that pair a gutter guard mesh with a spike strip along the outer edge. The mesh is meant to keep most leaves and debris out of the channel, while the spikes discourage squirrels and birds from perching on the lip. These combined products usually take more work to install than a plain spike strip. We do not sell gutter guards, and spike strips on their own do not keep leaves out.
\n\nChoosing gutter spikes comes down to the animals you are dealing with, the type of gutter you have and the conditions the strips will face.
\n\nThe animals using your gutters shape what you need. Squirrels are heavier than small birds, so they call for stiff spikes set close enough that there is no easy footing between them. Small birds can squeeze into gaps that larger animals cannot. The Gutter Spikes strip has 1.3 mm stainless steel wire spikes, 115 mm long, with 60 spikes per metre across a 70 mm protection width. Compare that with where animals are landing on your gutter, and use enough strips to cover the whole edge.
\n\nGutters come in various profiles including half-round, square, ogee, deep-flow, and box section, each with a different lip shape, width, and angle. The spike strip base and its mounting method must be compatible with your gutter profile to achieve a secure, stable attachment that does not obstruct water flow into the channel. Half-round gutters with a curved lip may require a flexible or curved base strip that conforms to the gutter edge, while square gutters with a flat lip provide a straightforward mounting surface for standard flat-base strips. Check the compatibility information provided by the spike manufacturer and confirm it matches your gutter profile before ordering.
\n\nOn single-storey homes, where gutters are seen up close from the ground, the look of the spikes matters more. Clear or slim strips help keep them low-key. On taller buildings, gutters are seen from farther away, so looks matter less and you can focus on how well the strips hold up. The Gutter Spikes strip has slim 1.3 mm wires on a clear base 5 mm high.
\n\nGutters that face strong wind, heavy rain, snow and full sun take more wear than those on sheltered sides of the building. Stainless steel resists rust, but strips on exposed sides are worth checking more often for shifting, loose fixings or wear. Salt spray near the coast is harder on metal, so inspect strips there more often too.
\n\nSquirrels and birds often find a bare stretch of gutter and move their activity there, so the problem shifts along the roof rather than going away. For better results, plan to cover the full length of gutter the animals can reach, not only the spots where you see activity now. Partial coverage can simply move the droppings, damage and mess to wherever the spikes stop.
\n\nGutter spike installation is a straightforward process, but the elevated working position and the need for consistent, gap-free coverage along the entire gutter run require careful preparation and methodical execution.
\n\nInstalling gutter spikes means working at the roofline, which means working at height. Use a sturdy ladder of the right length, set on firm, level ground at the angle shown on its label, and have someone steady the base. A ladder standoff holds the ladder away from the gutter, which protects the gutter and gives you a better working position. For two-storey homes, steep or high roofs, or awkward access, consider scaffolding, an access tower or hiring a professional with the right equipment. Do not overreach: climb down and move the ladder for each section, and stay off the ladder in wet, icy or windy weather.
\n\nClear all debris, nesting material, droppings and grit from the gutter channel before installing the spikes. This does two jobs. It clears blockages already in the channel, which spikes cannot fix, and it gives the strip base a clean, dry surface so adhesive bonds well and fixings sit firmly. If droppings are present, wear gloves and a dust mask while cleaning.
\n\nPlace the strip along the outer lip of the gutter with the spikes pointing up and slightly outward. For adhesive fixing, run a continuous bead of UV-stabilised silicone adhesive along the base and press the strip firmly onto the gutter lip. On metal gutters you can also use stainless steel self-tapping screws through the base, with a dab of gutter sealant on each hole to keep the gutter watertight. Cable ties or nails can work where the edge or ledge suits them.
\n\nWork along the gutter in order, butting each strip tightly against the last one with no gaps. At corners, cut the strip to fit the angle and start a new strip on the next run, making sure the corner itself is covered. At downspouts, run the strips up to and around the downspout connection so this common weak point stays covered.
\n\nAfter installing, run water from a hose into the gutter at a few points and check that it flows freely to the downspouts, without the strip base or any extra adhesive getting in the way. The spikes should sit on or above the gutter lip, not in the channel, where they could catch leaves and cause blockages. If a section gets in the way of the water, move it before the adhesive or fixings set.
\n\nPhotograph the completed installation from ground level and, if possible, from the working height showing the strip position on the gutter lip. These photographs serve as a reference for future maintenance inspections, help you identify any sections that may have shifted or been damaged, and provide a record of the product and coverage for insurance or property sale documentation. If you are installing gutter spikes on a property you manage for a client, the photographs also form part of the service record that demonstrates the work completed.
\n\nGutter spikes still need some care, because the gutter exposes them to leaves, debris and weather.
\n\nDuring your yearly gutter clean, which every home needs whether or not spikes are fitted, check the strips for any that have shifted, come loose or been damaged. Refix loose strips, replace broken ones and clear leaves and debris from between the spikes. This is also the time to remove any nesting material birds have tried to build on or around the spikes, since leftover bits can pile up over the seasons and give a bird enough to build a nest.
\n\nHigh winds, heavy snow loads, and ice formation can displace or damage gutter spike strips. After any significant weather event, do a visual check from ground level to confirm the spike strips are still in position along the full gutter run. Binoculars can be helpful for inspecting upper-floor gutters from ground level. Any sections that appear displaced or damaged should be inspected at working height and repaired promptly to prevent pest animals from exploiting the gap.
\n\nIn the weeks after installing, watch your gutters for signs that animals are still using them. Squirrels and birds may try to return to spots they used before. If they avoid the spiked sections but settle on bare areas nearby, add strips to close those gaps. If they are still landing on or between the spikes, check that the strips run end to end, sit on the outer edge and have not been bent flat, and add other steps such as trimming branches that give squirrels a way onto the roof.
\n\nUnprotected gutter edges can lead to droppings, nesting mess, stained walls and squirrels looking for a way into the roof space. Gutter spikes help make that edge harder to use, with no power, chemicals or refills needed. They still need a check when you clean your gutters, and they do not keep leaves out, but they can discourage squirrels and birds from landing on or walking along the gutter edge.
\n\nThe Gutter Spikes we sell pair stainless steel wire spikes with a clear polycarbonate base and fix with UV-stabilised silicone adhesive, nails, screws or cable ties. Fit them along the full length of gutter animals can reach, check them each year, and pair them with regular gutter cleaning and steps like trimming branches. Done that way, spikes can make your roofline much less inviting to the animals that have been using it. If your roof is high or hard to reach, have a professional fit them.
\n\nThey sit along the gutter lip or roof edge so a squirrel has nowhere flat to walk or sit. They discourage animals from using the gutter line; they do not stop leaves or water.
\n\nThey suit most gutters with a solid lip or edge to fix to. Check that a strip will not get in the way of the water flow before you fix it.
\n\nMany people fit them themselves, but gutters mean working at height. Use a stable ladder with someone to help, or ask a professional for a high or steep roof.
\n\nThe spikes are stainless steel wire on a polycarbonate base, and the listing recommends a UV-stabilised silicone adhesive for fixing them outdoors.
\n\nWe do not recommend painting them. The clear base takes on the colour of the gutter underneath.
\n\nWe do not publish a lifespan. Check the strips when you clean your gutters and re-fix any that have moved.
\n\nNo. Spikes are an animal deterrent, not a gutter guard, and leaves can collect around them. Keep cleaning your gutters as usual.
\n\nThey are a non-lethal deterrent. They make a surface uncomfortable to walk on rather than injuring the animal.
\n\nStrips fixed with screws or cable ties can usually be taken off and refitted. Glued strips are harder to remove cleanly.
\n\nThe wire spikes can be seen up close, but the clear 5 mm base is hard to see from the ground.
", "llm_summary": "Gutter Spikes (SKU ss-spike-05) sold by Squirrel Spikes Company at squirrelspikes.shop, $9 CAD per 50 cm strip. Stainless steel gutter spikes on a clear polycarbonate base, sold by the 50 cm strip. They make the gutter line and roof edge an awkward route for squirrels. They do not keep leaves out of a gutter. Delivery across Canada is free on orders of $75 or more, otherwise a flat $22, and Express Shipping is $22 on any order. Orders are handled in 24 to 48 hours and delivered in 5 to 7 days. Change-of-mind returns are accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy, and anything that arrives damaged, faulty or not as described is put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the buyer's province or territory applies.", "returnable": true, "return_policy": "Change-of-mind returns accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy: original packaging, proof of purchase, tracked return postage at the customer's cost, and the original shipping charge is not refunded. Damaged, incorrect, faulty or not-as-described goods are put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the customer's province or territory applies and is unaffected.", "shipping_profile": "standard", "warranty": null, "brand": "Squirrel Spikes Company", "gtin": null, "mpn": null, "condition": "new", "url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/gutter-spikes/", "canonical_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/gutter-spikes/", "json_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/api/products/gutter-spikes.json", "updated_at": "2026-09-15", "compare_at_price": 12 }, { "id": "squirrel-trap", "sku": "squirrel-trap", "title": "Squirrel Trap", "slug": "squirrel-trap", "price": 129, "currency": "CAD", "availability": "in_stock", "category": "squirrel-trap", "category_label": "Squirrel Trap", "tags": [ "squirrel", "trap", "live catch", "cage" ], "colors": [ "Galvanised steel" ], "materials": [ "Galvanised steel mesh" ], "dimensions": "78.5 cm x 30.5 cm x 27 cm", "weight": null, "images": [ "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/main-squirrel-trap.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-01.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-02.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-03.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-04.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-05.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-06.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-07.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-08.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-09.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-10.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-11.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/dropship-images/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap/squirrel-trap-12.jpg" ], "description_short": "It arrives assembled, sets in minutes and folds flat for storage. Check your local rules before you trap or release an animal.", "description": "Sometimes prevention and deterrence are not enough. You have trimmed the branches, installed spikes on the fences, sealed the soffit vents, and scattered repellent around the garden, but a particular squirrel has already set up home inside your roof space, moved into your outbuilding, or caused damage serious enough that it needs to be caught and removed before things get worse. That is when a squirrel trap enters the conversation.
\n\nA squirrel trapping cage is a humane live-catch device designed to catch squirrels alive and help reduce the chance of injury, so you can remove an individual animal from a place where it is causing damage and deal with it under your local wildlife rules. Using a squirrel cage well takes more than setting it down and waiting. It takes an understanding of squirrel behaviour, the right trap, good baiting and placement, and a clear plan for what happens after the animal is caught. This guide covers the process from choosing a trap through to careful handling after the catch, so each step is as humane as you can make it and you know which local rules to check.
\n\nTrapping is not the first step in squirrel control and should not be treated as a standalone solution. It is a targeted intervention for specific situations where other methods have been insufficient or where the circumstances require the physical removal of an individual animal.
\n\nWhen a squirrel has gained access to your attic, wall cavity, or outbuilding, deterrents and barriers on the exterior are no longer enough to resolve the problem. The animal is already inside and needs to be removed before the entry point can be properly sealed. A squirrel trapping cage placed inside the affected space or at the entry point gives you a controlled way to catch the resident squirrel so the opening can be closed without shutting the animal inside, which would cause it to panic and do far more damage trying to get out.
\n\nNow and then, a bold or experienced squirrel will find ways around deterrents that work well against other squirrels nearby. It may have learned to bypass spikes by using an unusual route, grown used to repellents through repeated exposure, or simply be more determined than your current setup was designed to handle. Where your local rules allow it, trapping this particular animal can deal with a problem that adding more deterrents may not fix, because the issue is the individual animal rather than the deterrent.
\n\nWhen a squirrel is actively chewing through electrical cables, damaging plumbing, or weakening parts of the structure, and the damage poses a real risk to safety or your property, waiting for deterrents to take effect is not an option. A squirrel trap is one way to catch the animal and stop the damage before it grows into a major repair. Have damaged wiring checked by an electrician. Once the animal is out, add longer-term deterrents to help stop it happening again.
\n\nEven when trapping is necessary, it works best as one part of a wider squirrel control plan rather than the whole plan. Removing one squirrel without dealing with what attracted it can leave a vacancy that another squirrel may soon fill. Good squirrel management combines trapping for immediate removal with sealing entry points, blocking routes, reducing attractants, and ongoing deterrence, to make it less likely that the trapped animal is simply replaced by the next one looking for a convenient home.
\n\nThe squirrel trap market includes several trap designs, each operating through a different mechanism and suited to different capture scenarios. Understanding the options helps you select the trap type that matches your situation and your comfort level with the trapping process.
\n\nThe single-catch live-capture cage is a common type of squirrel trapping cage for home use. It is a rectangular wire mesh cage with a door at one end, closed by a spring or by gravity, and a trigger plate, pedal or hook inside that releases the door when the squirrel steps on it or pulls the bait. The squirrel enters the cage to reach the bait, sets off the trigger, and the door closes behind it, holding the animal alive inside the cage until you come back for it.
\n\nSingle-catch cages come in various sizes. The cage needs enough room inside for the animal to move without hurting itself, while still feeling like a sheltered tunnel. The Squirrel Trap measures 78.5 cm (31 in) long, 30.5 cm (12 in) high and 27 cm (10.5 in) wide, and is made for squirrels and similar-sized animals. The mesh should be strong and well made so it is hard for an animal to chew through it or bend the wire to make an opening. The Squirrel Trap uses galvanised steel mesh.
\n\nMulti-catch traps are designed to capture more than one squirrel before the trap needs to be emptied and reset. These traps use a repeating door mechanism or a one-way entry funnel that allows squirrels to enter but not exit, accumulating multiple catches in a single setting. Multi-catch traps are used primarily by pest control professionals managing large-scale squirrel problems in commercial or institutional settings where multiple animals are active in the same area and individual trapping would be too time-consuming to address the population pressure.
\n\nMulti-catch traps need more frequent checking than single-catch cages, because holding several stressed squirrels in a small space can lead to fighting, injury, and more distress. Operators who use multi-catch traps check them often through the day to cut down the time caught animals spend in the trap and to separate them promptly.
\n\nExclusion traps are a specialised type of device designed not to hold the animal in a cage but to let it leave a building through a one-way door that is designed to stop it getting back in. The device is mounted over the squirrel's entry point into the structure, and when the squirrel leaves through the door on its normal foraging route, the one-way door blocks its way back. Once all squirrels have left, the device is removed and the entry point is properly sealed.
\n\nExclusion doors are often used for attic spaces and wall cavities because they need no bait and let the squirrel leave on its own instead of being confined. Take extra care during breeding season, such as spring, when a mother may have young in the nest. Young that are too small to follow her can be left behind inside, so have your local wildlife authority or a licensed wildlife control operator advise you before you fit a one-way door, set a trap, or seal any opening.
\n\nSome tube traps and body-grip traps are lethal traps that kill the animal. They are used in specific pest control situations where lethal control is allowed and a qualified professional has decided it is the right response. Lethal traps are not suited to general home use, and rules on them vary and can be strict. Their use is often limited to licensed operators working under the rules where they are. This guide covers live-catch methods only, as the humane approach for homeowners dealing with squirrel problems, and does not recommend lethal traps.
\n\nSelecting the right cage involves matching the trap specifications to the animal you are targeting, the location where the trap will be placed, and the conditions under which it will operate.
\n\nA squirrel cage must be large enough for the animal to walk in and move around without being cramped, but it should still feel like a sheltered tunnel rather than open space, which is what draws the squirrel inside. The Squirrel Trap measures 78.5 cm (31 in) long, 30.5 cm (12 in) high and 27 cm (10.5 in) wide, and is made for squirrels and similar-sized animals such as chipmunks, rats, weasels and raccoons. Smaller animals can be warier of a larger cage, so a short bait trail leading inside can help build their confidence.
\n\nConstruction quality matters because a trapped squirrel will test the whole cage for a way out. The wire mesh should be strong and well made, with no gaps or weak points where the squirrel could chew, bend, or force its way through. The door should close quickly and firmly, with a latch that holds it shut when the squirrel pushes from inside. Flimsy cages with thin wire and weak doors are a poor buy, because a determined squirrel can damage or escape from them, wasting your time and possibly hurting itself in the process.
\n\nThe trigger must be sensitive enough to go off under the weight and movement of a squirrel but not so sensitive that wind, vibration, or other animals set it off by mistake. Some trapping cages have triggers that can be adjusted for the conditions. A pedal or plate trigger that the squirrel must step fully onto before it fires helps make sure the animal is well inside the cage when the door closes, which lowers the risk of the door catching its tail or hind legs. On the Squirrel Trap, place the bait just behind the trigger pedal so the animal walks fully inside.
\n\nSquirrel cages come with single-door and double-door layouts. Single-door cages have an entry at one end and a solid panel at the other. The squirrel enters from the door end, moves toward the bait, and the door closes behind it. Double-door cages have entries at both ends, which some animals are less wary of because they can see through the cage to a visible exit. The Squirrel Trap has a front door with gravity action, set off by the trigger pedal and rod, and a rear door with a release lever tool.
\n\nIf you plan to move the trap between locations or store it between uses, a collapsible or folding cage design simplifies transport and storage without compromising structural integrity when deployed. For outdoor placement where the trap will be exposed to rain, the cage should be constructed from galvanised or powder-coated wire that resists rust. The trigger mechanism should operate reliably when wet, as a mechanism that seizes or stiffens in damp conditions will fail at exactly the moment it needs to work.
\n\nTrap placement, baiting, and timing all affect whether the trap catches its target quickly or sits untouched for days. Using what you know about squirrel behaviour can help you catch the animal sooner.
\n\nPlace the squirrel trap on or near the route the target squirrel uses regularly. Squirrels are creatures of habit that follow the same paths between their nest, food sources, and territory. Setting the trap along this route, at the base of a fence it runs along, near a known entry point, at the foot of a tree the squirrel climbs, or inside the attic space where it has been nesting, puts the trap in the animal's natural path and makes a quick catch more likely.
\n\nPosition the trap on a stable, level surface where it will not rock or tip when the squirrel enters. An unstable trap startles the animal and makes it flee before the trigger goes off. Outdoors, place the trap in a shaded, sheltered spot, or partly cover it with a cloth or natural material to make a new wire cage look less out of place. Squirrels are cautious about unfamiliar objects and may take some time to check out a new addition to their territory before going inside.
\n\nGood baits for squirrel trapping cages include unsalted peanuts, sunflower seeds, whole walnuts in the shell, peanut butter smeared on the trigger, and small pieces of apple or dried corn. Peanut butter works well because its sticky texture keeps the squirrel busy at the bait, holding it on the trigger long enough to set it off. Place the main bait on or just behind the trigger pedal so the squirrel must fully enter the cage and step on the trigger to reach the food.
\n\nCreate a bait trail of a few seeds or nut pieces leading from outside the cage to the entrance and through to the trigger. This trail draws the squirrel's attention, leads it further inside the cage, and builds its confidence that the cage is a safe source of food before it reaches the trigger. Some people pre-bait the area by scattering food near the unset trap for a short time before setting it, so the squirrel links the trap location with food first.
\n\nA caught squirrel is under real stress, and leaving an animal in a trap for long periods is inhumane and may break local rules. Check your trap often, and more often in hot or cold weather, since heat and cold can quickly harm a confined animal. Keep the trap out of direct sun and sheltered from rain and cold, and do not leave it set when you cannot check it. Rules on how often traps must be checked vary by province, territory and municipality, so find out what applies where you live. Beyond the rules, checking often is simply the right thing to do when you have taken responsibility for catching a living animal.
\n\nTrapping and releasing wildlife is covered by rules that vary by province, territory and municipality, and can also depend on the animal and the method used. Find out what applies where you live before you set a trap, because following those rules is your responsibility.
\n\nRules can differ from one animal to another. Some wildlife may be protected, need a licence or permit to trap, or be covered by extra rules, and the same animal can be treated differently from one province or territory to the next. Before setting a trap, confirm which animal you are dealing with and what rules apply to trapping and handling it where you live. Your provincial or territorial wildlife authority, your municipality, or a licensed wildlife control operator can tell you.
\n\nMany people assume that a live-caught squirrel can simply be driven to a park or woodland and let go. In reality, rules on moving and releasing wildlife vary by province, territory and municipality, and some places limit where, or whether, a caught animal can be released. Moving an animal to unfamiliar ground can also lower its chance of survival and spread disease to other animals. Find out the release rules where you live before you set a trap, because a live squirrel in a cage with no lawful plan for it is hard on you and on the animal. If you are unsure, contact your local wildlife authority or a licensed wildlife control operator.
\n\nIf you are uncomfortable with any part of the trapping process, unsure about the rules, dealing with squirrels in a hard-to-reach or dangerous spot, or facing several animals or a mother with dependent young, calling a licensed wildlife control operator is a sensible choice. A licensed operator should know the local rules, have the right equipment and any permits needed, and have experience handling each stage humanely and lawfully. Weigh the cost of a professional against the legal, ethical, and emotional problems that can come from trapping without enough knowledge or preparation.
\n\nCapturing the squirrel is not the end of the process. What you do with the trapped animal and what you do with the space it occupied both determine whether the problem is truly resolved or simply paused.
\n\nA trapped squirrel is a stressed, frightened animal that will bite and scratch if it gets the chance. Do not handle a trapped squirrel with bare hands. When moving the cage, wear thick gloves and carry it by the carry handle, keeping your fingers clear of the mesh where the squirrel could reach through and bite. Cover the cage with a towel or cloth to calm the animal by blocking its view of the activity around it. Speak quietly and move slowly. If your local rules allow you to move it, keep the cage in a secure, ventilated spot in your vehicle, out of hot sun and cold, and deal with it promptly.
\n\nAs soon as the squirrel is out of your building, and you are sure no other squirrels or young are still inside, seal every entry point it was using. Use heavy-gauge galvanised mesh, sheet metal, or purpose-made soffit and vent covers that are hard for a squirrel to chew through. Expanding foam, lightweight plastic covers, and thin wood patches are weak barriers that another squirrel can chew through quickly. Another squirrel may find the same opening soon, so seal it promptly and well.
\n\nAreas where squirrels have nested or spent time build up droppings, urine, nesting material, and food scraps that are a hygiene concern and can attract new animals. Clean the space well using protective gear including gloves and a dust mask. Remove nesting material, droppings, and soiled insulation. Disinfect hard surfaces with a suitable cleaner. Replace damaged insulation and repair any damage caused by gnawing. A thorough clean-up helps remove the scent markers and leftover attractants that can draw new squirrels to the same spot.
\n\nA squirrel trap is a useful tool when used carefully, humanely, and within your local rules. It gives you a direct way to deal with some squirrel problems that deterrents and barriers alone may not solve, especially when an animal is already inside your property. But a trap is only as useful as the plan around it. Used on its own, it removes one animal and leaves room for the next. Used as part of a wider plan that includes sealing, deterrence, and ongoing upkeep, it deals with the immediate problem and makes a repeat less likely. That mix of careful removal and steady prevention is what makes a squirrel trap worth having.
", "llm_summary": "Squirrel Trap (SKU squirrel-trap) sold by Squirrel Spikes Company at squirrelspikes.shop, $129 CAD. A folding live-catch trap in galvanised steel mesh, 78.5 cm long, 30.5 cm high and 27 cm wide. Bait it, set the trigger and check it often. The animal is caught, not harmed. Delivery across Canada is free on orders of $75 or more, otherwise a flat $22, and Express Shipping is $22 on any order. Orders are handled in 24 to 48 hours and delivered in 5 to 7 days. Change-of-mind returns are accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy, and anything that arrives damaged, faulty or not as described is put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the buyer's province or territory applies.", "returnable": true, "return_policy": "Change-of-mind returns accepted within 15 days of purchase under this store's own policy: original packaging, proof of purchase, tracked return postage at the customer's cost, and the original shipping charge is not refunded. Damaged, incorrect, faulty or not-as-described goods are put right at the store's cost. Canada has no general federal cooling-off period for online purchases; the consumer protection law of the customer's province or territory applies and is unaffected.", "shipping_profile": "standard", "warranty": null, "brand": "Squirrel Spikes Company", "gtin": null, "mpn": null, "condition": "new", "url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/squirrel-trap/", "canonical_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product/squirrel-trap/", "json_url": "https://squirrelspikes.shop/api/products/squirrel-trap.json", "updated_at": "2026-09-15", "compare_at_price": 149 }, { "id": "ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent", "sku": "ultrasonic-deterrent", "title": "Ultrasonic Squirrel Deterrent", "slug": "ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent", "price": 299, "currency": "CAD", "availability": "in_stock", "category": "repellents", "category_label": "Repellents", "tags": [ "squirrel", "ultrasonic", "solar", "repeller" ], "colors": [ "Red" ], "materials": [], "dimensions": null, "weight": null, "images": [ "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/repellents/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent/main-ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/repellents/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent-01.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/repellents/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent-02.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/repellents/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent-03.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/repellents/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent-04.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/repellents/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent-05.jpg", "https://squirrelspikes.shop/product-images/repellents/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent/ultrasonic-squirrel-deterrent-06.jpg" ], "description_short": "Mount it on a fence, tree, shed, deck or eave. Animals can get used to any sound, so it works best as part of a wider squirrel plan.", "description": "The promise is appealing. Mount a device, switch it on, and high-frequency sound keeps squirrels away from your yard with no chemicals, no barriers and no heavy lifting. Ultrasonic deterrents have been sold to homeowners for years as a clean, easy answer to a frustrating pest problem. The reality is less simple than the box suggests. It helps to know what these devices can and cannot do before you make one part of your squirrel control plan.
\n\nThis guide takes an honest look at ultrasonic squirrel deterrents. It explains how they work, what affects how well they perform, and the common mistakes that lead to disappointment. It also helps you decide whether an ultrasonic unit belongs in your squirrel plan, or whether your situation calls for a different approach.
\n\nUltrasonic devices give off high-frequency sound above the range most people can hear. The idea is that this sound is irritating or uncomfortable for squirrels, so they leave the area and stay away while the device is active.
\n\nSound travels through air as pressure waves. The frequency of those waves decides whether we hear a low rumble, normal speech or a high whine. People hear less of the high end as they age, and many small mammals, squirrels included, can hear sounds too high for people to hear. Ultrasonic deterrents use that gap: they send out sound squirrels can hear but you usually can't.
\n\nWhen an ultrasonic deterrent works as intended, the sound creates a zone of discomfort around the device. A squirrel entering that zone hears an unpleasant sound and may want to move away, a bit like a person reacting to a piercing alarm. Over time it may link the discomfort with the spot and use other routes where the sound is not present.
\n\nThis is the theory. In practice, the degree to which individual squirrels respond to ultrasonic sound varies considerably based on the frequency used, the sound pressure level, the environmental conditions, and the individual animal's sensitivity and motivation. A mildly curious squirrel investigating a new garden may be easily discouraged by an ultrasonic signal, while a squirrel with an established nest in your attic and a strong territorial attachment to your property may tolerate significant acoustic discomfort rather than abandon a location it considers home.
\n\nUltrasonic deterrents come in a few types, each made for different spaces. The unit we sell is a solar powered outdoor model, but it helps to know how the other types compare.
\n\nIndoor units plug into a standard outlet and send out steady or pulsed ultrasonic sound, aimed at discouraging squirrels from enclosed spaces such as attics, garages and crawl spaces. They are compact and need no installation beyond plugging them in. How much space they reach varies from model to model and with the layout of the room. We don't sell indoor plug-in units; our deterrent is a solar powered outdoor model.
\n\nIndoor units work in an enclosed space. Walls, floors and ceilings bounce sound back into the room instead of letting it spread into open air. That can help the sound stay stronger through the space, and a squirrel has fewer places nearby to get away from it.
\n\nOutdoor ultrasonic deterrents are standalone units made to protect gardens, patios, bird feeding areas and other outdoor spaces. They run on batteries, solar power or both, so they don't need a power outlet nearby. Many use a motion sensor that switches the sound on only when an animal moves within range, which adds the startle of a sudden burst. Our unit is this type: solar powered, with motion detection that triggers ultrasonic sound and a flashing strobe light.
\n\nOutdoor units face harder conditions than indoor models because ultrasonic sound fades quickly in open air. There are no walls to bounce it back, wind can carry it off, and fences, bushes and garden structures create shadow zones the sound does not reach. In a real yard with plants, structures and wind, expect the unit to reach less far than it would in open, still conditions.
\n\nSome ultrasonic deterrents add other features, such as a flashing strobe light, a water spray or an audible alarm. Our unit pairs ultrasonic sound with a flashing strobe light when motion is detected. Mixing sound and light gives an animal more than one thing to react to, which may make it slower to get used to either one. It does not stop habituation, but it can help.
\n\nCommercial ultrasonic systems are larger, higher-powered units for places such as warehouses, farm buildings and commercial rooftops. They often use several speakers and change frequency as they run to slow habituation. They are usually installed by pest control companies as part of a wider site plan, not bought off the shelf by homeowners.
\n\nHow well any ultrasonic deterrent works depends on the device, the surroundings and how the animals behave. Knowing these factors helps you set realistic expectations and choose a better spot for the unit.
\n\nNot every ultrasonic frequency bothers squirrels equally, and animals may react differently depending on their age, hearing and past exposure. A device stuck on one fixed frequency may work at first, then lose its effect as squirrels get used to the steady sound. Changing frequencies can make the sound harder to tune out, which is why our unit offers a frequency cycling mode. It can slow habituation, not stop it.
\n\nSound pressure level, measured in decibels, is how strong the ultrasonic signal is at a given distance from the device. A stronger signal reaches further and is more unpleasant for squirrels in range. Home devices have limited output, though, and outdoors the sound weakens quickly with distance. Place the unit close to the spot you want to protect rather than counting on it to reach across a whole yard.
\n\nOutdoors, expect the real reach to be shorter than ideal conditions would suggest, especially where plants, structures and wind get in the way. In enclosed indoor spaces, sound holds its strength better because walls bounce it back.
\n\nUltrasonic sound travels in straight lines and does not bend around corners or pass through solid objects well. Anything between the device and the squirrel, such as a fence, a shrub, a shed or even a large planter, casts a sound shadow where the signal is weaker or missing. Squirrels can learn to use these shadows as safe paths. Give the unit a clear line of sight to the area you want to protect, and in a busy yard, a second unit at another angle can help cover spots the first one misses.
\n\nHabituation is when an animal gets used to something it meets again and again and stops reacting to it. It is a major challenge for any ultrasonic deterrent, and it is why results that look good at first can fade over weeks or months. A squirrel that first hears the sound may be wary and keep away. Over time, if the sound doesn't lead to any real harm and the rewards for putting up with it are high, such as food, shelter or a safe nest, the squirrel can learn the sound is only annoying and start to ignore it.
\n\nVarying the frequency, the pattern and when the device switches on can help slow habituation compared with one steady tone. Adding a second deterrent, such as a flashing light, may help too by making the experience less predictable. Even so, habituation can happen with any ultrasonic device, especially with squirrels that have a strong reason to stay.
\n\nAir temperature, humidity and wind all change how ultrasonic sound travels, so the unit may reach less far on some days than others. Wind can carry the sound downwind and weaken it upwind, so coverage shifts as the wind changes. Rain and snow may also set off a motion sensor by mistake or cause it to miss movement, depending on the sensor. In winter, brush snow off the solar panel.
\n\nSetting realistic expectations helps you avoid disappointment when an ultrasonic device does not deliver the complete, effortless squirrel removal that some advertising suggests.
\n\nIn the right conditions, an ultrasonic deterrent can discourage squirrels that are just passing through, cut down how often they visit a specific area, and add to a wider plan that makes your property less appealing than the yards around it. Outdoors, it works better when aimed at a clear, specific spot, such as a fence line, a deck or a garden bed, than when it is expected to cover a whole open yard.
\n\nUltrasonic devices work best as a supplementary layer in a multi-method squirrel control strategy rather than as a standalone solution. When combined with physical barriers such as spike strips and mesh, scent or taste repellents, habitat modification, and entry point sealing, an ultrasonic device adds another dimension of deterrence that makes the overall system more difficult for squirrels to defeat.
\n\nAn ultrasonic deterrent will not keep every squirrel out of an area. It will not outweigh a squirrel's pull toward a reliable food source or an established nest. It does not reach squirrels hidden behind walls, fences or other solid objects. Its results can change with the weather and the setting, and squirrels that hear it every day for a long time may get used to it.
\n\nExpecting an ultrasonic device to solve a squirrel problem entirely on its own sets you up for disappointment. These devices are tools, not miracles, and like all tools, they work best when used for the tasks they are suited to and combined with other methods that address the aspects of the problem they cannot reach.
\n\nHow well an ultrasonic deterrent works varies from one property to the next. It may discourage squirrels for a while, especially when the sound is new to them, and it may do little against squirrels with a strong reason to stay. The fair view is that an ultrasonic unit can help as one part of a wider plan, but it should not be your only method. Be wary of any claim that sound alone will clear pests for good.
\n\nIf you decide to add an ultrasonic unit to your squirrel plan, a few practical steps can help it perform better and keep working longer before squirrels get used to it.
\n\nMatch the device to the space. Indoor plug-in units are made for enclosed spaces such as attics and garages, and we don't sell them. Our solar powered unit is a motion-activated outdoor model for yards, gardens, patios and decks, where a sudden burst of sound and a flashing strobe light add a startle effect. Don't expect an outdoor unit to act like an indoor one, and don't expect one home unit to cover a large property.
\n\nPlace the unit with a clear line of sight to the area you want to protect. Aim it at the spot squirrels use most, such as an entry point or a feeding area. Mount it above ground level where you can, on a fence, tree, shed, deck or eave, which improves the line of sight and cuts down on ground-level obstacles that cast sound shadows. Make sure the solar panel on top gets good sun. In a yard with a complex layout, a second unit at a different angle can help cover the shadow areas one unit leaves.
\n\nUse the settings to keep things unpredictable, which can help slow habituation. Our unit lets you switch between motion detection, continuous operation and frequency cycling, and add the optional predator sound. Change modes from time to time, and move the unit now and then so squirrels can't map a safe route through the area. The less predictable it is, the longer it tends to keep squirrels guessing.
\n\nAn ultrasonic deterrent works best as one part of a layered plan. Use spike strips on fences, gutters and walls to block the routes squirrels travel. Seal building entry points with mesh. Apply scent or taste repellents to items being chewed. Then add the ultrasonic unit as an extra layer of discomfort that backs up the other methods. That way it doesn't have to work perfectly on its own, because the other methods handle what sound can't.
\n\nAfter installing, watch the area over the next few weeks. Fewer droppings, scratch marks, dug-up soil and sightings are signs the unit is helping. If nothing changes after a few weeks, the unit may not be reaching the spot squirrels use, or the squirrels may have a strong enough reason to stay that sound alone won't move them. Try moving the unit, adding a second one, or shifting your focus to physical barriers and other methods that don't depend on how a squirrel reacts.
\n\nBefore you mount a unit, think about how ultrasonic sound may affect animals other than squirrels.
\n\nCats and dogs may hear ultrasonic sound, and it may bother them if a unit is running in or near the places they spend time. Some pets may seem restless or uneasy, or avoid the area. If you have pets, think about placement: aim the unit at squirrel routes away from where your pets rest and play, and watch how they react after you set it up.
\n\nUltrasonic devices are not species-specific. They reach any animal in range that can hear the sound, which may include bats and other wildlife you are happy to have in your yard. If that matters to you, think about whether a more targeted method, such as spikes on the specific routes squirrels use, would deal with the problem with less effect on other animals.
\n\nUltrasonic squirrel deterrents have a real but limited place in squirrel control. They offer a non-contact, non-chemical option that can reduce squirrel activity in the area they cover. They work best as an extra layer alongside physical barriers, repellents and changes that remove food and shelter, not as a standalone fix. Squirrels can get used to them over time, and results outdoors depend a lot on placement, obstacles and weather.
\n\nIf you choose to invest in an ultrasonic squirrel repeller, do so with clear expectations. Select a quality device with variable frequency output and motion activation. Position it thoughtfully for maximum coverage. Combine it with other deterrent methods that address the physical access routes and attractants driving the squirrel problem. Monitor the results honestly and be prepared to adjust your strategy if the ultrasonic component is not delivering the contribution you expected. Approached this way, an ultrasonic device can be a useful part of your squirrel management toolkit, doing its part within a system that does not depend on any single method to carry the entire load.
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